An SF Roundup
BY LISA DURANT
“Food is our common ground, a universal experience.”
—James Beard
How fitting to feature James Beard’s quote in Common Ground Magazine, as we share a timeless, eclectic list of San Francisco food favorites inspired by place, history, and culture.
Zuni Café
This famous café opened at the crossroads of Market and Rose Streets in 1979, and walking into Zuni still feels the same as it did in those heady early days. The familiar brick oven roasting Judy Rogers’ famous chicken makes a visit seem like coming home when travels have taken us away. Paired with toasted bread salad and Little Gems, Zuni’s roasted chicken is the perfect antidote to SF’s chilly fog. Champagne and oysters with mignonette make the experience especially festive.
Café Jacqueline
Also in 1979, Jacqueline Margulis opened one of the most romantic restaurants in the city on Grant Street in North Beach. The ambience of this boutique outpost with its old wood floors and small tables for two and four adorned with white tablecloths and red roses pronounces love even for the skeptic. The waiters like to know your story and if you’re a longtime patron they certainly do. Jacqueline herself whisks dozens of fresh egg whites into an old copper bowl every night to create the light, fluffy peaks that make every soufflé sublime. The menu is simple: hors d’oeuvres, salads, and sweet and savory soufflés. The butter lettuce salad, leek soufflé, and Grand Marnier soufflé can’t be beat.
Yank Sing
Who can resist the rolling carts chock-full of steamed delights served up Cantonese style with a friendly smile? The Chan family started serving dim sum in 1958 and the award winning cuisine continues to delight at new locations on Stevenson and in the Rincon Center. Go for the pork dumplings, pea shoot dumplings, soup dumplings, and sesame balls with jasmine tea.
Jackson Fillmore Trattoria
Open since 1985, Jackson Fillmore remains an SF hot spot for those in the know about places to swap food and stories. Delight in any pasta dish, especially an all-time favorite, the spaghetti alla carbonara, and yes, you can count on the traditional garlic-tomato bruschetta, complimentary as always. As devotees know, finish with the signature zabaglione.
Gracias Madre
“Welcome to a seat at love’s table.” So goes the phrase to welcome you at Gracias Madre, which became an instant classic when it opened in 2009. It serves food the way the protagonist in Like Water for Chocolate did—where food is a representation of love. Flautas de camote, crispy tacos filled with sweet potato and caramelized onion, topped with guacamole and cashew nacho cheese, are my suggestion, paired with a glass of house Tempranillo. The vegan chocolate cake and coconut cream will assuage any sweet tooth.
Plouf
When Bastille Day rolls around every summer, expats and Francophiles celebrate at 40 Belden Place. For more than 20 years, Plouf’s have been the best moules mariniere to be found, accompanied by an incomparable buzz of vieux monde street café atmosphere.
Sidekick Café/Cowgirl Creamery
Inspired by Paris agricultural fairs, West Marin’s favorite old school creamery opened a café in the Ferry Building that serves some of the best grilled cheese “toastie” combinations to be found stateside. On Saturday market days look for the French Haute-Savoie favorite, raclette, served traditionally with cornichon.
Tartine
No great food list would be complete without Tartine Bakery, the place to find viennoiserie as you’d expect it in France. Chefs Elisabeth Prueitt and Chad Robertson trained in France and first launched Bay Village Bakery in Point Reyes. They even had a small presence in Mill Valley for a time. Who knew a small endeavor would grow to become a worldwide sensation? Enjoy the pain au chocolat, croissant aux amandes, toasted sandwiches, and fresh country bread available at 4pm.
Italian Homemade
When the founder of Bakers of Paris, who is Parisian, insists Italian Homemade is the best pasta in the Bay, take note. At Italian Homemade, diners choose their pasta type: tagliatelle, pappardelle, fettucini, gnocchi, ravioli, and top with their choice of sauce: Bolognese, meatball, marinara, pesto, béchamel, butter and sage. Fantastic, even to the most demanding Parisians!
Lisa Durant is an event producer and experiential marketing strategist.