In growing numbers, farmers, ranchers and fisherpeople are transporting their harvests to more than 4,400 farmers markets (and counting) across the country; apartment dwellers are riding their bikes or walking to these contemporary agoras to exchange wealth for beauty, flavor and pleasure. Diners in restaurants across the country are asking: “Who grew these potatoes?” “Who caught this fish?” “Who made this cheese?” Chefs and servers are answering with the names of their friends and colleagues, those dedicated souls who are passionate about food and willing to take the risks necessary to achieve the best possible products.
The new book Chefs on the Farm: Recipes and Inspiration from the Quillisascut Farm School for the Domestic Arts is a record of one very small, if optimistic, part of this movement. At Quillisascut, in Rice, WA, award-winning chefs and other cooks learn sustainable food practices and share recipes, such as the one excerpted here. To learn more about the book and the Farm School from which it came, visit quillisascut.com.
Jacob’s Cattle Bean, Kale and Chèvre Soup
The goat cheese adds a delicious tang to this comforting soup. The heavy cream binds the beans together and makes the soup thicker, so resist the urge to substitute whole milk or half-and-half. Because of the high fat content, this soup freezes well. Note: Canned beans are not a suitable substitute as the beans make their own stock and sauce.
Makes 8 servings
2 cups (about 12 ounces) Jacob’s Cattle beans or other white beans, rinse and soak overnight (3 parts water to 1 part beans, soaking water reserved)
2 tablespoons salt
2 tablespoons (¼ stick) unsalted butter
1 medium carrot, diced
1 celery stalk, diced
1 medium yellow onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1½ cup tomato purée
1 cup chopped preserved roasted red peppers (store-bought is fine)
1 bunch black kale (or other kale), about 8 to 10 leaves, stemmed and chopped
2 dried bay leaves
1 tablespoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon red chili flakes
1 cup heavy cream
1½ cups (about three-quarter pound) soft goat cheese
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Kosher salt
Put the beans and soaking water in a large stockpot over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil and skim foam from the beans. Reduce the heat to a gentle simmer and add the salt (the water should taste lightly of salt). Cook about 1 hour, until the beans are soft in texture and creamy in flavor.
Meanwhile, in another saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat and cook the carrot, celery, yellow onion and garlic, until the mixture is soft but not brown. Stir in the tomato purée, red peppers and black kale. Cook for 4 to 5 minutes and add salt to taste.
When the beans have finished cooking, stir in the vegetable mixture, bay leaves, thyme and chili flakes. Cook for about 20 minutes, then add the heavy cream, goat cheese and black pepper. Cook for 15 minutes more, then season to taste with salt.
Variations: In summertime use fresh tomatoes, peppers, and thyme. For a lighter minestrone-style soup, leave out the heavy cream and goat cheese.
— Recipe excerpted from Chefs on the Farm: Recipes and Inspiration from the Quillisascut Farm School for the Domestic Arts by Shannon Borg and Lora Lea Mistery with recipes from Karen Jurgensen and photography by Harley Soltes (Skipstone).