Photo By Ana Homonnay
Photo By Ana Homonnay
A new trendy restaurant in a neighborhood noted for its trendiness — Hayes Valley — is not ordinarily cause for celebration. But when that new restaurant is created with eco-consciousness and features organic, local fare, prepared with novel flair, it warrants rolling out the banner. Good thing, since Jessica Boncutter, owner and chef of the bite-sized Bar Jules, hasn’t hung a sign — which, in this case, is apropos. Word of mouth is packing in diners, plus Bar Jules personifies a clear theme: less is more.
Minimalism drives Bar Jules. The menu doesn’t inspire decision-making dilemmas or allow regulars to fall into the rut of ordering the same dish every visit. Featuring merely two entrees, four appetizers and two desserts each night, choices change daily, based on the score from that day’s shopping trip. Virtually every ingredient is organic and originates locally from quality small farms. Meat is grass fed and raised without hormones. Instead of printing menus — which consumes precious resources — Bar Jules posts its menu on chalkboards in the restaurant and on its website.
The minimalist, eco-friendly approach is echoed in the décor. Rimming the open kitchen is a sleek bar. Recycled wood tables paired with rattan chairs line the front windows and olive green wall (painted with non-toxic paint). A taupe wall that soars to loft-like heights is made cozier by a ledge garnished with candles and squashes. Bar Jules composts, uses environmentally-safe dishwashing liquid and, instead of generating tons of waste from packaged water, offers filtered tap water in glass bottles. “We are as sustainable as possible,” Boncutter says. “We’re trying to do our part for the environment.”
Boncutter, 32, whose pedigree includes Zuni, describes her cuisine as “Mediterranean-eclectic.” But one of the servers, Jake, has his own description — “wildly varying.” Open only three weeks at the time of our visit, already several customers confessed to being repeat offenders. “This is the best thing that ever happened to my neighborhood,” gushed one diner, Kelsey. We sampled almost the entire menu, starting with potato and Jerusalem artichoke soup. Ordinarily, I don’t even like soup, but this one was a delightful blend of flavors and surprisingly light. Farro (a Mediterranean, super healthy, barley-like grain) salad with radishes, scallions, cilantro and buttermilk dressing put an exotic spin on the salad course.
The tender, sautéed squid with celery, arbequina olives, hot pepper flakes and chickpeas tasted delicious. But the pièce de resistance was our entrée — seared scallops with white beans, blood oranges, fennel and parsley, so yummy that my friend actually stole a scallop off my plate. Chocolate Nemesis, a fluffy, flourless chocolate cake added an exclamation point to our scrumptious meal.
Serving brunch on Sundays, Bar Jules, which was named for Boncutter’s basset hound, offers Bluebottle coffee and an array of exotic teas. One thing it doesn’t offer — reservations. But incomparably fresh, exquisitely combined ingredients transformed into wonderful dishes that are served in a low-key, convivial atmosphere reward food lovers willing to risk waiting for a table.
Bar Jules, 609 Hayes Street, Hayes Valley. 415.621.5482. barjules.com
Open Tuesday-Saturday, 6 pm to 10 pm; Sunday Brunch, 11 am to 3 pm