Common Ground: A Sea of Green

October 2007

A Sea of Green

Weird Fish serves up sustainable seafood for the Mission

by Eric Larson

Just shy of its first anniversary, Weird Fish continues to go over swimmingly with San Francisco scenesters in search of all things seasonal, seafaring and sustainable. The humble building at 2193 Mission St. (formerly a “nasty, dirty, decommissioned” liquor store, according to owner Timothy Holt) is flourishing in its new incarnation, packed to the gills with hungry Missionistas night after night.

As part of the crew who made Boogaloos (the PoMo diner just a short strut up the street) a stronghold of the local scene, Holt wanted his own place to be one where locals would feel welcome and comfortable, not only with the atmosphere, but also with the food and prices.
“I want to give people a sense of appreciation,” says Holt, “like somebody in the neighborhood cares about them.” Caring for his neighbors doesn’t just mean offering them discounts on food, which he does (yes, with proof of address) every Monday night; it also means sourcing sustainably-farmed fish and using fresh, seasonal veggies as much as possible.

“It’s amazing when customers realize that what they’re eating was just picked that morning,” says Holt, who makes the short trip to Alemany Farms himself each Wednesday to retrieve produce for the week ahead.

Holt recognizes that not all customers will defacto embrace or even understand green-minded business practices. “But, as a restaurant,” he says, “part of our job is to educate people about food.” And, he says, customers increasingly want to know the origins of the food they’re consuming — where it comes from and how it was grown.

As for the menu itself, it is just as Holt wanted it — nothing too fancy or intimidating; simple, without being plain. “The menu,” he says, “isn’t supposed to be surprising. It’s a reflection of everything I like to eat.” Having grown up around the Chesapeake Bay, that means seafood — specifically fish and chips. “My goal is to have the best fish and chips in the city without being labeled a fish and chips joint.”

Blanketed in a deep Anchor Steam batter, the fish of his fish and chips — a tilapia — should be a serious contender for the desired prize, while the chips — a mix of potatoes and yams — are a solid counterpoint. Not one to forget vegan customers craving the fish and chips experience, Holt and company have concocted a wheat-free soy batter they toss over tofu. Another must-have entree for omnivores is the almond-Dijon encrusted trout, served with a simple side salad. And if you like surprises, you’ll dig the “Suspicious Fish” daily special, the identity of which is revealed only upon serving.

Weird Fish’s starter menu also includes a tasty clam chowder; oysters; calamari with sage and lemon; and CG’s personal favorite, deep-fried dill pickles served with chipotle and lemon aioli dippers. With prices this low — entrées run between seven and eleven dollars — there’s plenty of room for Holt’s delectable desserts, which always include a number of vegan options.

Holt says that the first year of business at Weird Fish has exceeded all of his expectations. “There are such great restaurants in this area,” he says, speaking of, among other mainstays, Boogaloos; Front Porch; Blue Plate; and Bourbon and Branch, “But there’s nothing else quite like this.”

Weird Fish, 2193 Mission Street, SF. 415.863.4744, weirdfishsf.com

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