Safronya
December 2006
From Bluebloods to Greenbloods: The “Wellness” Spa Revolution
Common Ground’s Guide to the Essential 11 Holistic Hideaways
By Sheerly Avni
When a New York transplant like me hears the word “spa,” it’s hard not to think of tight-lipped society matrons sipping Tom Collinses while teams of minions apply themselves to the ladies’ bejeweled hands and toes — the kind of place a JD Salinger villainess would go to read the gossip pages and get her elbows buffed.
But here in the progressive Bay Area, the most in-demand and sometimes high-end spa experiences are green, holistic and, often, Ayurvedic (the world’s oldest recorded healing arts, Ayurveda means “life art” in Sanskrit).
Beyond facials and Swedish massage, these next-generation spas also offer yoga, aromatherapy, energy work, hypnotherapy or a combination of all of the above, all the while adopting a doctrine of environmental awareness, consciousness raising and ecologically sound treatments — more likely to preach meditation than exfoliation. As Michael Stusser, the founder of Sonoma’s high-minded Osmosis says, “We offer a personal healing that is connected to planetary healing, that takes into account the planetary imperative for sustainability.”
Stusser and his compatriots in this movement are not just businesspeople, but also paradigm shifters who are more interested in pushing change than European products or sumptuous trifles.
Of the many spas in the Bay Area from which to choose, the eleven included here spoke most closely to Common Ground ’s mission of holism, alt medicine and sustainability.
Osmosis — Near Santa Rosa, Sonoma County
osmosis.com
Osmosis, which was voted one of the top ten spas in the country by Travel and Leisure magazine, takes you as green as you can go without pitching a tent. From its natural cedar enzyme baths to a full line of pure organic products to its outdoor massages and picturesque backcountry grounds, everything about the spa expresses Stusser’s eco- and sustainability awareness.
First step: the spa’s signature enzyme bath, in which I was buried up to the neck in cedar chips, which produce thier own heat and made me feel claustrophobic and relaxed at the same time. Second step: a 90-minute aromatherapy facial, during which I was slathered in about 18 organic essential oils, and the esthetician talked about her preference for preventative skin care over plastic surgery and the beauty of wrinkled skin. Add the fact that after the facial I looked like a supermodel for exactly four and a half hours, and you get a sense of why Osmosis is so beloved. (In addition, my companion said her massage was the best she’d ever experienced and swears she met her animal spirit afterwards in the meditation garden.)
Bonus Extra : The garden is a retreat in its own right. The snacks are organic, the gifts fair trade, and the building itself is a “green,” non-toxic structure.
On a Budget : Not so much
Safronya — San Rafael
safronya.com
At the Safronya Retreat, you’ll find no pedicures, no bikini waxes, no makeup consultations. You will find, however, a genuine center for Ayurveda, and a gentle insistence from your therapists that you take a certain responsibility for your own well-being. Before my massage, I was treated to a consultation with Dr. Archano Rao, a radiant woman of un-guessable age. Of the three mind/body types, or dosha, mine is vata or air. I am a “sensitive flower of the universe” — scattered, bright, witty, and highly nervous. When I quipped that wasn’t a vata, just an East Coast Jew, she smiled quizzically and first told me I was out of balance and then prescribed a rigorous treatment plan complete with menus, suggested teas, breathing exercises and herbal supplements. If followed, it would amount to less a prescription than a practice, like yoga or Zen Buddhism.
After the bracing consultation came a luxurious treatment. The Aryuvedic massage was wonderful, involving tremendous amounts of sesame oil, but the highlight was the Shirodhara, a sublimely relaxing oil drip on the forehead and scalp, which makes you feel as if your very thoughts are being bathed in honey.
Perk : Safronya is in a tastefully decorated house on Avenue D, and the warm homey touches, including a kitchen just off the lobby, make you feel much more like a guest than a paying client.
On a budget : Cheap monthly classes in Ayurvedic teachings, including lessons on cuisine, karmic cleansing and astrology.
Meditrina World Healing Spa — Oakland
meditrinaspa.com
Right off Piedmont Avenue in Oakland, this spa, at first blush, has all the feng shui of a converted doctor’s office. Calm, yes, relaxing, yes. But it’s got the feeling of exactly what it is — a converted storefront.
But don’t judge an inside experience from the outside. Meditrina was one of the more affordable of the holistic spas we found, and also, because of the two onsite experts in medical and psychic health, one of the most truly eye opening. Its founder, a corporate culture refugee (from an industry so evil that she asked us to keep it secret), had become a “spa junky” because of work stress, and so she quit and decided to build a spa of her own. Her dream was to incorporate treatments from all over the world, and though Meditrina is not yet international, it boasts a rich menu of experiences.
I signed up for a consultation with a Dr. Rebecca Wilhelm, an MD and naturopathic healer who helped me devise and East-meets-West approach to calming that fritzy vata and still indulging my love for fresh cold vegetables, followed by a soothing an excellent Swedish massage. But the surprise highlight was Kate Schrup, a licensed hypnotherapist who specializes in reiki, psychic healing and a technique called Matrix Energetics. Not less than 45 seconds into her ME session, this particular ex-skeptic was not only sobbing violently, but so moved that I was begging the universe to explain why innocent children have to suffer.
Perk : Soul cleansing, and catharsis. No, really.
On a Budget : Many of the treatments are available in short, affordable versions, even the energy work can be bought for a $20 mini-session.
Kamalaspa — San Francisco, Union Square
kamalaspa.com
The hyper-luxurious Kamalaspa supplements its ayurvedic treatments with manicures, makeovers and even a hair salon. The true selling point, however, is the lavishly decorated, dimly lit corridors of its massage treatment rooms, many of which come with private steam showers, and all of which are decorated with gorgeous and exotic hangings and furniture imported directly from India. My therapist, a remarkably pleasant and detail-oriented young man named Gonzalo, treated me to a rice oatmeal scrub he had designed himself, a series of oil treatments that drew heavily on taming that pesky vata dosha, and a massage that incorporated equal parts acupressure, Swedish, reiki and intuition. Its bosses own not only Kamalaspa, but the whole building, which is up for “green status” with the city.
Perk : Offers complimentary alcoholic refreshments in their waiting room. If your tolerance is high enough, you could drink the price of your massage before you start.
On a Budget : Kamalaspa offers periodic half-time/half-price massages.
Immune Enhancement Project — San Francisco, The Castro
iepclinic.com
When we first contacted the IEP executive director Robert Goergen about including the Castro’s clinic in our package on spas, he warned us not to expect much in the way of frills. “This is a clinic, not a spa,” he warned, “and our acupuncturist’s tables are just separated by curtains.” It’s true that the IEP, which was founded in the ‘80s by AIDS activists and acupuncturists, is much more low-key than the other centers we visited. The walls are decked with fundraising information, not tapestries and wall hangings, and most of the furniture seems imported from Ikea, not India. But with a full range of (affordable) services including acupuncture, herbal therapy, massage, and nutritional counseling, this may well have been one of the truest Wellness Centers we visited.
One-third of the patients are there for HIV-related illnesses, and the clinic itself is funded in part by city/state money and independent grants. Furthermore, when Goergen took us on a tour of the facilities, we were stunned less by the cramped quarters than by the concentration of positive energy in the clinic. The IEP is the real deal, a healing center based on the philosophy of alternative medicine, respect for its clientele, and affordable health care.
Perk : The best karma ever.
On a Budget : Rates are extremely reasonable, especially if you are HIV positive, demonstratively broke and an SF resident. But don’t be surprised if you find yourself writing an extra check for the donation box.
Ayoma Life Spa — San Jose
ayomalifespa.com
Tucked away on the fifth floor of the Hotel Valencia Santana Row, Ayoma Life Spa is the only spa in the South Bay to exclusively offer Ayurvedic therapies. Ayoma brings the East to you in its intimate treatment and common rooms, which are decked with bright fabrics, lush pillows and carved furniture imported from India. In addition to numerous facial, skin and massage therapies, you can meet for a two-hour session with an Ayurvedic doctor who determines your dosha and recommends tailored eating and exercise habits.
During the cleansing Abhyanga massage, a therapist slathered me with warm, dosha -appropriate oil. The oil is meant to eradicate toxins by penetrating the skin as it’s applied in rapid movements in the direction of blood flow: away from the heart to the tips of the fingers, toes and crown of the head. A Marma treatment in the common room was an excellent follow-up, where a therapist focused on my feet and hands for 30 minutes each with exfoliation and pressure-point massage. Once the treatments were through, I enjoyed a solitary moment in the private steam room. Ayoma encourages clients to make a day of their spa experience by using the hotel pool and gym facilities, access to which are free with any treatment. — Emily Dulcan
Perk : If your hung over they’ll make you a special pitcher of their delicious cucumber water, and hot tea is always on hand.
On a budget : Uh-uh.
Watercourse Way — Palo Alto
watercourseway.com
This two-story spa just a short walk from the Palo Alto Caltrain depot offers not only hot stone massages, mud body masks, seaweed wraps, massages and other high-end treatments, but also luxurious hot tub rooms that cost less than a week’s worth of lattes. Each of the nine hot tub rooms can be rented by the hour for as little as $18 per person. Themes include the Moroccan Room, with its wooden doors paned with minaret-shaped sheets of glass, and a tub room where an etched-glass underwater scene of manta rays and seaweed glows gently as visitors sink into a swirling tub built below its own starry night-sky circle of ceiling.
After an hour-long soak, steam and cold plunge, we padded down a Buddha-lined hall and upstairs to the tranquil massage floor, where our masseuses turned on the steam in the attached couples shower room and left us to simmer for a quarter-hour. Afterward, we needed to cool down with at least three rinses, Ingrid and Miki told us, so that our bodies would stay dry while they brushed us. I’d never thought of myself as a thoroughbred (a workhorse, maybe), but I can now imagine I know how they feel at the end of a race, after lying on the massage table with all my energy and stress steamed out, having a thick-bristled brush stroked vigorously down my arms, legs, and back. The sensation was somehow invigorating and relaxing at the same time. The massage that followed soothed my tense muscles, and ended with the application of hot stones pressed into my shoulders, back and the base of my neck. — Liz Enochs
Perk : Most delicious herbal green tea you’ll ever taste, that you can take with you from appointment to appointment.
On a Budget : Hot tub rooms that transport you to a different universe.
One Taste Urban Retreat — San Francisco, SOMA
onetastesf.com
In gritty SOMA is One Taste, an “urban retreat center” that’s a one-stop for yoga (even the naked kind), dance and some of the best-priced holistic massages in The City. After arriving at 1074 Folsom Street, I was greeted by a warm smile and a gentle hug. After chatting a couple of minutes with my perspective massage therapist, Beth, over a cup of herbal sage tea from the on-site organic, fair trade, vegetarian café, I was escorted to an adjacent door leading to the One Touch Holistic Body Center, where the body treatments take place. A tranquil hallway led me to a simple room where a very inviting massage bed awaited my arrival.
Soft music filled the room as I prepared for my Swedish massage treatment. Beth walked in quietly as I lay there in the white sheets and asked if there was any place that needed special attention. Massage is a very intimate and individual experience and Beth was very intuitive and attentive with the amount of pressure needed on various muscles in my body so I felt completely taken care of the whole time. I really didn’t have to say anything at all, except for the occasional, “Wow, I really need this.” With affordable rates, choice of modalities (deep tissue, polarity, energy work, Swedish and acrosage [a massage-yoga hybrid]) and wonderful charm, One Taste is definitely an affordable respite from those stressful jobs downtown. — Chandanni Miglino
Perk : The engaging staff.
On a Budget : The massages are a deal, regularly between $70-$80 for an hour, but during Friday “happy hour” (4-7pm) the range is a blissful $50-$60.
Evo Spa — Mill Valley
evo-spa.com
In sharp contrast to the frenetic Highway 101 running adjacent to the Strawberry Shopping Mall in Mill Valley, Evo Spa provides unique solace and sanctuary. The waiting room is lovingly bedecked with Oracle Cards, cool products to sample and organic fruits, snacks, and hot tea. The attention to detail is stunning. The staff seems happy to be there, and this enthusiasm rubs off onto the clientele. I was there for an innovative new facial treatment, the Soli-Tone Lumilift, where LED light energy and micro-currents stimulate collagen production in the skin, perfect for our older readers. Donna, the therapist, made me feel relaxed. Equally, the light creates a sense of calm, as it shifts and changes, vibrating at various frequencies specially selected for my skin type. The whole experience was conducive to a sweet nap. To effectively erase years from one’s skin, it’s advised to purchase a series of eight or more treatments, as the benefits accrue cumulatively. Nevertheless, after only one session, my husband noticed my face aglow and commented that I looked refreshed. The treatment helped ease some of the redness in my pigmentation, which may have come from sun damage. I imagine this was a lot safer than plastic surgery. — Elizabeth Daniels
Perk : The most comfy, beautiful, luxurious bathrobes, slippers and towels ever! They’ll make you feel like royalty as you amble about the premises.
On a budget : The detox foot bath, 30 minutes, $55.
Maharishi Ayurveda Health Spa — San Francisco, North Beach
maharishispa-sf.net
Just enough of a refuge from the noise and confusion of downtown San Francisco, Maharishi Ayurveda Health Spa offers a complete list of Ayurvedic treatments and typical spa therapies, such as facials and Swedish massage. My therapist said they try to stay true to traditional Ayurvedic technique, and, aside from a few modern amenities, the facility is fairly true to the clean, tranquil atmosphere you imagine in your mediations.
The 90-minute Abhyanga Shirodhara begins with a foot washing as a sign of respect for the visitor. While I was still seated, the massage began at the head with the application of warm oil. I found myself in numerous positions, in a chair and on the table, during the hour-long Abhyanga portion, which is usually conducted by two therapists. This massage is “light touch” — no deep pressure for stiff muscles and tricky knots, but perfectly relaxing. By far the most memorable aspect of the massage was the copious amount of warm oil dousing every inch of skin multiple times until I felt like I’d slide off the table if it weren’t for the cotton sheet beneath me.
The second portion of the treatment was the popular Shirodhara — the thin stream of warm oil applied to the forehead. Surprisingly soothing, this treatment practically put me under as the warmth spread across my forehead, onto my scalp and through my hair. Ten mandatory minutes of rest followed, just enough time to regain consciousness. After a hot shower, I felt so relaxed that I didn’t mind having to face the gritty city outside. — Emily Dulcan
Major Perk : In addition to a hand-held nozzle, the shower comes with six wall-mounted jets that keep you swaddled in steam.
On a budget : The Rose Petal Bathing Ritual, a milk or tea bath, surrounded by roses.
Senspa — San Francisco, The Presidio
senspa.com
Sitting on a path less chosen in the Presidio, the first time to this high-end spa might confuse your cabbie, and surprise you too, since the building — on the outside anyway — is an unimproved, historic army barracks that most recently was a warehouse. But once you’re inside, its striking, expansive interior will leave you with an indelible impression when, and if, you ever decide to leave. Senspa is not only one of the most holistically full-service (from Chinese cupping to lymphatic massage to ionic aqua detox to meditation classes), but feels like a resort spa where guests, once they have an appointment, are invited to linger, relax and snack on organic niceties all day and enjoy the serene, high-ceilinged, high-minded ambience. Some even telecommute in their robes, as the water fountain gurgles into their subconscious.
My visit included a meeting with Senspa’s wellness coach, Sanja, who guided me through a questionnaire that forced me to see beyond my day-to-day stress to figure out how I could really improve my quality of life, and see how the spa could best serve me. “Ninety-five percent of the people I see are focused on how they feel, not how they look,” she told me. Based on my pathetic responses, she suggested a fruit & veggie juice fast, a good whole-food multivitamin, more water intake and the Senspa RXPM, for office workers like me suffering from carpal tunnel and tight computer shoulders. Those with a grand or so to spend can take advantage of four-week-long “paths,” that include 1) release (detoxification) 2) restore (to give balance) and 3) revitalize (rejuvenation). Logical, wise and staffed with a wide swath of alt medicine experts, Senspa has the answers and the questions you need — and custom wellness plans that go far beyond the spa’s front door. — Todd Spencer
Nice Touch : Lecture series. Visit the website for scheduled speakers.
On a Budget : The Sen Signature Massage. An eastern-meets-western 50-minute massage customized to your needs and wants, for only $95.
Sheerly Avni is an Oakland-based writer. She writes for Salon.com, Variety , The San Francisco Chronicle , and many other publications. Elizabeth Daniels, Emily Dulcan, Elizabeth Enochs and Todd Spencer contributed.
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