November 2006 | Food
The Compassionate Kitchen
Esalen’s magical secrets
By Charlie Casci
The most important and most overlooked ingredient in any recipe is the preparer of that recipe. Yes, that’s right—the cook. Concrete ingredients such as the freshest fruits, herbs and vegetables are important in any recipe, of course; but the attitude of the cook, the subtle messages and energies that are incorporated into the recipe in the process of the preparation is never given any credible thought—though it should be. A certain positive awareness in the cook’s attitude will almost secure success in the kitchen. A stressful, insecure, angry or fearful attitude on the part of the cook will impart these feelings into the food and ultimately be absorbed by whoever eats it. Those of you fortunate enough to have a mother who is a great cook know what I’m talking about when I say that every dish that mamma made was great—great because of the incredible effort and care, the loving tenderness she had when she prepared food for her family. Preparing food with a warm heart is a direct expression of love.
When I took over the Esalen kitchen eight years ago, I had a strong commitment to the belief that the individual can help to change the world by action. I was eager to create the idea of a “compassionate kitchen.” I wanted to bring the humane view into the realm of kitchen management, to create a kitchen culture that would reflect a good morale, mentally and physically healthy employees, flowing creativity, high productivity, great food and fun in preparing that food. I used a philosophy of Dick Price, Esalen co-founder, for my recipe to this new approach to kitchen management. This was to allow people to express themselves and to witness that expression without judgment. Taking risks, believing in people and empowering them with confidence to believe in themselves is the key to the magical success of the Esalen kitchen.
Excerpted from the Esalen Cookbook by Charlie Cascio. Reprinted with permission of Gibbs Smith, Publisher.
Quinoa & Veggie Soufflé
¾ c. quinoa
1½ c. water
3 tbsp. oil, divided
2½ c. grated carrots
1½ tbsp. dried thyme, divided
2½ c. grated zucchini
1 medium yellow onion, diced into ½-inch pieces
1 c. grated Asiago cheese
2 c. ricotta cheese
1½ tbsp. sea salt
½ tsp. pepper
2 tbsp. chopped fresh basil
4 eggs, separated
Place the quinoa in a fine sieve and rinse. In a saucepan on high heat, stir in the quinoa. Continue to stir 5 minutes or until it has a nutty aroma. Add the water, lower the heat to simmer, cover and cook for 10 minutes. Set aside to cool.
In a sauté pan, add 1 tbsp. of oil and sauté the grated carrots with ½ tsp. dried thyme. Set aside. Sauté the zucchini and onion separately, using the same method as the carrots. Place the quinoa, carrots, zucchini and onion in a mixing bowl. Add the Asiago and ricotta and stir well. Add salt, pepper and basil. Beat the egg yolks and stir into the mixture, making sure everything is well mixed. Beat the egg whites until they have stiff peaks, and then gently fold them into the mixture.
Oil a 6-inch soufflé pan and pour the mixture into it. Bake in preheated oven at 350˚ F, covered, for 30 minutes; uncover and bake 30 minutes more. The soufflé is done when a knife inserted into it comes out clean. Serves 4.
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